Traveling Solo in Maruti Zen Estilo from Delhi - Himachal Kinnaur-Amritsar -Delhi

    One thing which invariably puts extra life in me is travel. Travel anywhere! In India, outside India , to rural areas , urban areas, to mountains , plains, to sea coast or just driving on the road. It is one thing that is close to my heart and as I age it is getting more intense and I wanted to do it more and too often. Whether there is a company or not it does not matter, just travel solo as a soul traveler, with friends, family and colleagues. And it is just travel for which I am most consistent in my life. I covered a quite lot of places in India and abroad. But the more I travel more intense it become. I am all for it.

    During corona time I was stuck at Patna in March and having a long time with family but I miss my usual self when I travel for learning and unlearning.  I travel not for a purpose but just purposely travel to new and some places which I keep repeating and that one place is Ramgarh , Nainital where my antarman dwells. I am visiting this place since 1997 and  made about more than 20 visit since 1997.Most of the time staying in Ramgarh TRH of KMVN Ltd.and few times at Whispering Pines, Ramgarh.

    During corona time made some trip to my native place which is not too far from Patna and once to Muzaffarpur and Thana Bihpur.

    I was always looking for a moment  when corona stabilizes and states start opening up. Finally after a record 187 days continuous stay at Patna I decided to travel to Delhi and chooses Sampoorna Kranti express from Patna to Delhi for my journey. The train was running as special train between Patna to Delhi.

    Reached Patna station bit early thinking that there may be some corona protocol to follow but it was nothing like that and boarded the train as usual. But the station was a deserted lot , only few pairs of trains were running from overly crowded Patna junction in normal times. However after boarding surprised to know that my ticket is still RAC. I thought as per railways policy they will keep certain number of seats vacant and also no RAC and wait list tickets were issued. But the train was full and somehow lucky to got a berth at Mughalsarai up to Kanpur and then changes to another berth from Kanpur to Delhi. Many passengers were fearful and frightened and boarding train with loads of sanitizer and putting it liberally on berths. Normally there was fear on everybody face but some taking more than required safety and some less. The pantry service was there with several rounds of tea/coffee/snacks etc. Overall the journey was safe, pleasant and quite.

    After reaching Delhi railway station , there were long ques to enter metro and also taking DTC buses. In DTC buses it was pleasant to see that it was not crowded and only certain number of people were allowed inside the bus. Taxis and autos were also available but overall the area was empty like a ghost town. I decided to take Ola for my travel to Dwarka. In Ola there was a plastic separation curtain between driver and passenger.

     The first stage was completed and after that keep looking for opening up of other states like HP, Uttarakhand to plan a quick trip.Things started opening up when center intervened that states cannot stop entry on their own. It has a desired effect and Himachal and Uttarakhand opened up for visitors around 4th week of September. Now it was time for me to leave. For quite some time I wanted to travel to Kinnaur district of HP so suddenly on Sunday 27th September I decided to take a call and left on 28th early morning to Kinnaur . I invited some of my friends to join on this trip but they were bit reluctant . I don't know reluctance was on part of their individualistic feelings or with family. Anyway it has not dampened my spirit and  I left Delhi on 28th September  sharp 6 am on my 2008 January model Maruti Zen Estilo. I have full trust and faith in my little Zen and every time when I return back it strengthen my resolve and trust in Zen. 

    It was a solo travel in Zen. I decided not to go to mechanic shop for a checkup of car and only get the tank filled and Tyre pressure checked on Sunday evening.

    One of the finest adventurous solo journey started from Dwarka Delhi at 6 am. It was fun on wheel. The zen was at her best on the road and through out the journey.

    I started with full  enthusiasm, openness and positivism with some concern back of my mind about entering formalities in Himachal, high altitude road for Zen and people acceptance of traveler after opening from long corona closure. But these were not enough to put any dampener to my spirit and I was joyous and hopeful of crossing any such small hurdles coming to my way. I was fully at ease when starting from Dwarka with physical self and mental self both in sync and ready for the adventure. I was aware of the topography and routes of Kinnaur but as a safety also downloaded the google map offline in case of direction when not getting signal or poor network but more importantly to save precious power of my cell phone whose battery is very weak and get fully discharged once google map is opened online for an hour or so. So info wise also I was  prepared.

Day 1: First stop at 11.15 am  after entering Himachal Pradesh at Sari after covering a distance of 279 km from Dwarka Delhi. Narkanda still  136 km away. The road from Delhi to Panipat is still in making but surface was good with few diversion. From Panipat-Ambala- Zikarpur-Panchkula -Pinjore road was excellent and in good condition. Pinjore -Solan four lane is in construction stage but major stretch is completed but after Solan to Shimla the work on four lane is still ongoing and most of the track is two lane with several diversion. Took breakfast and tea at Sari and also catch up with mails and wapp messages and left at 12.15 pm.Took second stop after crossing Solan, Shimla , Dhalli Chowk on NH 5 at Charbara around 3.30 pm at 366 km . Excellent lunch on road side dhaba of Karhi ,Rice, Malpua in gur with Pudina,Dhaniya , Adrakh chtani Left for Narkanda at 4 pm.

    Reached Narkanda at 5.30 pm and closed day one at 414.50 km at Hotel Sara , R. No. 103. The hotel was nice and clean and not booking room openly . The hotel has a parking on ground so put the car and checked in  in the room and out for a long walk around small Narkanda town. The centre of town is having old temple and famous Negi dhaba. But the dhaba was not admitting outsiders. The town also has HPTDC hotel. Took dinner at Rodeo cafe . The room at hotel sara was well lighted and with descent and courteous staff. It was quite cold at Narkanda. Went to bed early.

Delhi to Shimla has 5 toll booth and one entry at Parwanoo. Bhagan (75),Panipat (35),Ambala(40), Gharonda(125) ,Chandimandir (30) and Parwanoo entry (40) total 345 . The Panipat toll booth was most efficient,fast and orderly.

Day 2:Took breakfast in spacious hotel restaurant and left hotel at 11.22 am for Hatu temple on Hatu peak, Narkanda. Reached Hatu temple at 11.58 after a very steep 6 km narrow road from Narkanda circuit house road. Hatu peak is 7.80 km from Narkanda bazaar. After staying for about an hour started down for Narkanda.

    The first minor shock of the trip was very early after returning from hatu peak went for refilling at Narkanda's only petrol pump and it displays no petrol. The next petrol pump was another 25 km at Kingal. I knew that I was taking a chance but I reached Kingal and refilled it , got tyre pressure check as well. My original rough plan was to travel to Sangla /Chitkul or Kalpa on day 2 and Sarahan in return. But I quickly changed the program and decided to go to Sarahan on day 2 itself since it was already late. From Kingal I put offline google for Sarahan just for fun knowing well that I have to continue to Rampur then Jeori and take right from Jeori for Sarahan  but Google  took me to different Sarahan by crossing Sutlej at Sainj, which I keep going knowing well that it is not the usual route. It was a detour of 52 km both way. Road was not in good shape but traveling on the other side bank of Sutlej for quite some distance was fun and when I  reached  Sarahan , I was sure it is different Sarahan ,a small village. Without wasting further time I took a backward journey to Sainj , giving lift to two women up to bank at Luhri and then to Rampur Bushahar. I reached Sarahan at 7.30 pm. The day trip was 176 km. The road ended in the  HPTDC hotel at Sarahan , Hotel Shrikhand. Excellent location. Got room no. 306 and quickly took a detour of small temple town. Everything was closed. Not even a small hotel ,tea shop, shops and  restaurant. The only hotel open was Shrikhand. Back to hotel and took dinner in hotel's spacious beautiful restaurant facing temple. Sarahan is famous for the Bhimakali temple. 

Day 3: Visited temple in the morning and having a long walk around temple and town . Left Sarahan at 13.45 pm . Sarahan is in fact Bhimakali town . The Bhimakali mandir trust  owns almost main Sarahan with huge temple premises with place to stay (closed due to corona) and also huge orchards all around. The HPTDC Sarahan Shrikhand hotel is best choice . The Sarahan hotel has a perfect view of valley , temple with excellent open bar and trekkers lodge. HP has opened officially but no tourist. Had a good darshan at empty temple. The wooden architecture of the temple was very impressive.

After leaving Sarahan return to NH 5 on Jeori (17 km from Sarahan) and left for Sangal-Chitkul in Kinnaur. Kinnaur district is 8 km from Jeori and the road was in very poor condition. Somehow negotiated this worst patch of road. The route to Sangla-Chitkul was from Jeori-Karcham on NH 5 and then bifurcating to Sangla -Chitkul road from Karcham. The road from karcham to Sangla and Chitkul was bit difficult and and also not in good shape. Some patches were complete on boulder. Slowly negotiating these roads reached Chitkul in night at 7.15 pm. The 3rd day run was only 111 km but it was tough and hardy. Sangla- Chitkul was not open for tourist and all hotels were closed. Came to know that Kinnaur hotel association has decided to close all the hotels till December 2020. While looking for hotel at Chitkul saw a board of Hotel Snow View and went there to inquire and got a room for night stay and also ordered dinner . Then took a walk around the Chitkul the night was bright since it was one day before full moon day. It was quite cold at Chitkul. Wanted to have dinner at Hindustan ka aakhri dhaba but it was closed in night. There were some local movements but it seems I was the first traveler to check in after march in Chitkul. 

Chitkul is last Indian village . The road from Karcham to Sangla to Chitkul is mixed one. At some stretch very poor road due to land slide. Yesterday and today also near about 6 pm  large convoy of Bheda stopped at several places on road . Karcham has JSW energy hydel power plant of 300 mw. Chitkul is at 11920 feet altitude . No tourist at all. At sangla all hotels were closed.NH 5 is actually hydel energy highway of India . More than 5000 MW hydel plants are on this highway from Rampur onwards. Chitkul has no network except BSNL. Requested hotel support staff manoj to give hotspot for sometime to check the wapp and emails. Just for the habit otherwise there was no urgent need to do so. The mountain around Chitkul at that altitude was barren and looks like high altitude desert but nearby sound of river Baspa was pleasing. The moon throwing ample light on the barren mountain. It was a sight to treasure for life long.

Day 4: I was not able to complete my 2nd day and third day trip in day light and on both days I reached my destination in night. I wanted to avoid this and decided that at least today I should reach my destination  well before sunset. The challenging terrain, adventure in heart has desired effect and I turned back to my internal self and enjoying each and every moment of this trip in quietness and solitude of my little Zen. The only murmuring taking place after a considerable gap was between self and inner self for a joyful nod  to go further.What else you need ?

Took a long walk along Chitkul , village diety , negi dhaba for Brunch and decided to leave Chitkul around 12 noon. Wanted to stay tonight at Chitkul but somewhere on the back of mind there was strong urge to move to a place from where Kinner Kailash peak would be visible and today being the full moon day it made all important to have a lightful glimpse of Kinner peak. Options were either from Sangla or Kalpa. Sangla is only 24 km from Chitkul and Kalpa another 50 km from Sangla.

With open to both places I started from Chitkul and visited Badri Vishal temple and old Kamru fort at Sangla but kept moving so it was clear that Kalpa is the final destination for tonight.

Reached Kalpa at 5 pm and stopped directly at HPTDC Hotel Kinner Kailash , room no. 304. I was the first person to visit this facility after March. The hotel was closed but when I requested the reception then they talked to Shimla and allotted me room no. 304. The hotel was just in front of Kinner Kailash mountain with nothing in mid. It was the prefect view from a long glazed window of hotel room. The room was cosy and big. The Kinner kailash peak is revered in this part of Himachal as the abode of Lord Kailash and also people trek to this sacred  mountain peak. I was happy to reach Kalpa and got this beautiful room. After checking in room left immediately for a long walk to village Kalpa and a melodious sound from Kalpa monastery in the evening was doing a magnificent catching effect  and followed that evening prayers reached the monastery in the mid of village Kalpa. Kalpa gompa is also visible from the hotel room. Spent some time there and then took another long walk to return to hotel. It was  close to 10 km walk from hotel and I entered my room at around 8 pm in night. Last 4 km stretch was in complete dark with no movement and the quietness was broken only by some sound of small animals in the nearby forest. Returned to hotel and took dinner and started gazing towards the Kinner mountains in the full moon light. It was an amazing sight and at one point of time in the midnight it seems that the kinner mountain has come so close to the room that I can touch it. Went to bed quite late in night. Kalpa is amazingly beautiful and covered on all sides with apple orchards at an altitude of 2800 mts. The kinnauri apple is the best luscious variety among all Himachali apple.

Day four travel was only 75 km from Chitkul and very relaxing . The route was from Chitkul to Sangla to Karcham on NH 5 and then to follow NH 5 to Powari and then take left for Rcongpeo and after that Kalpa. Kalpa used to be old HQ of Kinnaur district but now Recongpeo is the district HQ. Lot of traffic from Powari to Recongpeo and also to Kalpa around 4 pm. The kinnauri apple farmers were not much at loss since Kinnauri apple were plucked little late so the border was opened just in time. Saw several apple sorting centre in Recongpeo and alos at Kalpa from where large consignment of apples were being dispatched.  Kinnauri royal , kinnauri golden were some of the excellent varieties of kinnauri apple. Visited one sorting centre to see the entire process at Kalpa.

Day 5 : It was relaxing and lazy day. I was happy that now my monastery trail is about to start and I was so positive that signs and intentions are supporting me for my monastery trail journey from Kalpa after a first visit yesterday evening to kalpa gompa. On back of my mind Nako, Tabo and Dhankar monastery was there. I have been to Kaza and visited Key gompa so I wanted to at least visit  till Dhankar and then to return via this NH5 Old Tibet Hindustan road or from Kaza to Manali and Delhi. I was fully relaxed and preparing slowly to leave after 12 for Nako, about 110 km from Kalpa. Now onward I wanted to go slow and stay at least few days in these famous monasteries. But little idea I have that today is going to be the most adventurous day of the trip and forget about yesterday timely arrival at Kalpa. This is just the day on road with Zen .

Left Kalpa at 12.20 for Nako. The road from Kalpa to Recong and Powari having some local traffic so decided to refill at Powari but I need to take a deroute for the refilling . I left it and  move towards Nako thinking that will refill on way. It was a big mistake. Did not find any filling station till Nako and when inquired at Nako came to knew that next filling station is at Kaza another 100 km.

There was something unexpected in plan for me for which I have no idea. The road from Powari to Nako was mixed one at high altitude . At several places work was going on for repairing, clearing land slides, widening etc. some patches were quite dangerous and stone were in free fall at many places with board put up by BRO about safety. But inside I was happy that I will be reaching Nako and will stay at monastery thinking tough part of journey is going to over soon. But after reaching Nako at  4.15 pm in evening it was the most unexpected  shock of the trip that the village people have closed the Nako village and not allowing outsiders . There was a board that it will be closed till December 2020 and similar was the case for Tabo, Dhankar in Spiti district. There was no filling station at Nako. I was completely put down , first by not able to stay at Nako Gompa and second shortage of fuel to go any further. At Nako village square  the daily need shop of Dhaniram was open and he and his wife has another small tea and food shop adjacent to the daily need shop. First I ordered tea and then took a walk to the main entry of village and talk to the local guy but he told that the Mukhiya is not in village so you can not  talk to him right now. I returned back to Dhaniram shop and inquired about petrol he told same thing. Then I told him that my vehicle has no fuel and if I did not get it then I  need a place to stay and will stay at his place. He and his wife told that the villagers have boycotted them because of our interaction with outside  people so they will throw away us from village if I stay there. I was joking. But he was helpful. then I told him to arrange fuel. Finally he agreed to put 10 lts petrol @100 in Zen.  I was bit worried about the quality but no choice.I quickly make up my mind and thought that Kailasha has some other plan for me this time and may be I have to come to this part again . I decided to go back and try not to loose any more day light to negotiate some very dangerous stretch of this route. I left Nako at 5 pm with no clear destination in my mind. Just I wanted to cover as much possible before sunset. I was back to my elements and on return path.The real adventure on wheel starts at 5 pm . What a day ? The entire trip of relaxation in the morning converted in to a road rally .The morning was the high point of trip, relaxed and calm. When started for Nako I was visualizing my stay at Nako Gompa but after driving 108 km on tough and rough terrain for about 4 hours on NH5 and NH 505. The drive through out from Poohu particularly was very attentive  and concentrated. But at last after reaching Nako , There was no Gompa stay. No fuel in Zen.  This was meditation on wheel. At several places there were barricades and I was allowed to pass may be because I was solo and they think that I am local. Solo has its advantage I guess in this trip.

I geared up all my senses and kept driving , non stop to Rampur , a distance of 185 km from Nako. I reached Rampur HPTDC hotel at 11.30 pm. After taking 10 litres petrol at  Nako I was sure that I will surely reach  Powari another 100 km and will refill  but there was no petrol at Powari petrol station  and the suspense continued for another 25 Km to Tapri where after seeing HPCL petrol pump I was happy that Rampur is not far. I got 3rd refilling at Tapri.  Now Rampur is in sight another 67 Km from Tapri. While starting from Tapri petrol pump one local person approached for a lift to a near by place en route Rampur at 20 km from Tapri.  I gave him the lift and we started talking about many things. He was a apple grower and came to Tapri for screening,sorting and selling his apple but it become late so he was looking for some lift otherwise his family member will come and pick him. It was a nice chatter in the car and he offered to stay at his place for the night . But I politely dropped him at his place on the  road and left for Rampur another 47 Km. His name was Hansraj negi . Got a room at Rampur HPTDC hotel , Hotel Rampur Bushhar regency on main road. Day 5 run was 292 km. I called it a long day and without thinking any further went to bed and left it everything for tomorrow morning to think.

Day 6 : Rampur is a town situated in the Sutlej plains at about 1500 mts on both sides. Rampur was the capital of Bushahar kingdom and was an important trade town in older times on Tibet-India route. In present days it is part of Shimla district and the hydel capital of HP . The old Padma palace of erstwhile king is still there with impressive wood work and architecture. But the palace is private property. The Satlej was not visible from the hotel  room but it was from upper floor and restaurant of the hotel. In the morning I took a walk on both sides of Rampur from the hotel and then return to hotel for brunch and tried local dish Gobi palda , rice and good coffee. It was awesome. I quickly  went through yesterday trip and some  setback of Nako. Traveling has taught me to be positive in all situation and not to bother or worry about past. So I quickly let it go about yesterday thing and thought that Gompa calling is still not in sight so why not do some golfing . And set up my mind to travel to Naldehra near Shimla and play Golf before leaving. 

All set , had a quick glance on car, washed front glass with water and left for Naldehra at 1.15 pm from Rampur about 135 km. Got tyre pressure check and adjusted at the outskirts of Rampur. Rampur is also connected by road to Purola, Mori side of  Uttaranchal.

I am back to my elements again and driving slowly towards Naldehra. Naldehra is 22 km from Shimla. Google was showing an alternative short route to Naldehra from Sainj , the same route that I took on 2nd day. But remembering road status I decided to travel on NH 5 . Being  Saturday I can see lot of traffic on the road mostly coming from Shimla. It looks like that tourists have started coming near about Shimla. En route there were several apple screen centre full of small pick up to carry apples to bigger mandis and  cities. It give immense pleasure that at last things are looking up. From Narkanda onwards traffic got bit heavy.  Took a small coffee break at HPTDC Theog hotel and then proceeded for Naldehra. There were jams before Dhalli Chowk and it took lot of time to take right from Dhalli Chowk for Naldehra. Dhalli-Mahoba-Naldehra are on old Shimla- Mandi road full of residential houses ,hotel  and resorts. I finally reached Naldehra at 5.53 pm. Sun was about to go. The sun set sight was so magnificent and I parked my vehicle opposite the Hotel Golf Glade. Another HPTDC hotel complex attached to 18 hole Golf course. Hotel Golf Glade was full. I don't want to go any further from Golf course so immediately walked down to nearest hotel from Golf Glade and got a room in Hill View Dhaba  just opposite Golf course hole no 7. I was satisfied , happy and ready for tomorrow golfing. Took a long walk and also to golf course to inquire about timing. Being Sunday one can expect lot of Golfers from Shimla so the Golf club manager suggested to come around 11.30. I am happy that I will get golf set etc all for playing tomorrow. Took dinner and went to bed early. The gold club manager is a nice gentleman.

Day 7 : No driving day. Wake up in the morning and took a long walk around Naldehra and took brunch at Tee Off restaurant of Hotel Golf Glade . After that reached Golf club and spent whole day . Being Sunday it was quite crowded. Playing one ball was not an option seeing the rush waited for some time to be part of another 2 ball or 3 ball. Got an opportunity to join Son and father two ball who came from Shimla to play Golf and also member of the club. It was a challenging course . Played 18 hole. They left after completing 9 hole. It was fun .  My caddy was from nearby village . Very challenging , rarely a hole was visible from  tee off. Not able to make any par , mostly 2 over . It used to be empty on week days but full on weekends. Hole no 5 and 14 were particularly tough.Club also has good restaurant but caddies were not well trained . But my caddy was quite good in finding  ball from rough or shrub area. Returned to hotel quite tired and decided to call it a day . Took dinner at Hotel. Before going to bed I was open to stay for one or two more days to play golf since  it will be empty tomorrow or day after on week days. 

Day 8 : Wake up quite early. It was higher call and decided to leave for Amritsar.  I knew it is going to be the long drive but I was determined to visit Golden Temple.

Started at 6.55 am from Naldehra via Dhalli Chowk, Shimla, Solan,Pinjore,Baddi,Outer Chandigarh, Roop Nagar(ropar),Bandi, Outer Phagwara ,Jalandhur, Amritsar, Attari, Wagah border- Amritsar Ghee mandi chowk near Golden temple. A fabulous drive of 434 km.

Haryana will never change neither their police , just after entering Haryana from Shimla there were police party charging for over speed. Took a quick stop opposite Mohan Meakin Brewery to get solan no. 1 . Difficult to get at Delhi.  Stopped for lunch at A one dhaba Phagwara and 4th refill at Amritsar .

Went directly to Wagah border , which was closed, then to Attari railway station and return to Hotel KD Inn at Ghee Mandi area near Golden temple. Parked the vehicle, checked in in the room  and set on foot for the Golden temple. Took dinner at langar. Back to hotel at 9.45 pm.  Wanted to stay longer at Amritsar but all other facilities were closed. 

Shimla to Amritsar has total  seven toll stops, six  on NHAI and one cash in  Punjab. Chandigarh-Baddi(61),Bachoharwa (55),Behram (50),Nijjerpura(30),Kumali(50),Dhilwan(30),Chiddan (45).

Day 9 : Went to Golden temple again in the  morning , Jalianwala bagh was closed, railway station, Amritsar club, Khalsa college, and Durga Mandir.

Took breakfast near Golden temple at Bharawan Da Dhaba in Town Hall market. Kulcha, Chana masala, Dahi, Lassi, Raita. The restaurant was empty , I was the only one . 

Returned to Hotel and now ready for Delhi. Another long drive of 482 km. 

At outer Amritsar stopped for few minutes to have fresh ganna juice and then left for Delhi at 1.40 pm . My first stop was at Dharam Dhaba , Kohand, Karnal before Panipat. Took dinner and started at 7.30 pm for Delhi. Reached home at 10.30 pm. Parked the vehicle in basement and with full Zen gratitude took a selfie and call it a day. The end of one of the most adventurous solo journey of life which I enjoyed thoroughly. It was fun crossing city after city from Amritsar in a matter of hour to reach Delhi.

Total drive was 2116 km and at the end  the program looks like touch and go but in fact it was full of challenges, unknowns, adventure, exploration  and from inside calm and serene. 

When I look back then it was like this ,

28/9 (1) Delhi- Pachkula-Solan-Shimla-Narkanda = 414.50 Km

29/9 (2) Narkanda-Hatu Peak -Narkanda- Sarahan (another)-Rampur-Jeori-Sarahan =175.80 Km

30/9 (3) Sarahan-Jeori-Karcham-Sangla-Chitkul =111 Km

1/10(4) Chitkul-Sangla-Karcham-Recongpeo-Kalpa=74.10 Km

2/10 (5) Kalpa-Nako-Rampur =292 Km

3/10 (6) Rampur-Naldehra =132.50 Km

4/10 (7) Naldehra =0 Km

5/10 (8) Naldehra-Wagah-Amritsar =434 Km

6/10 (9) Amritsar- Jalalndhur-Ludhana-Ambala -Karnal-Panipat-Delhi- Dwarka=482 Km

Amritsar to Delhi was complete toll road with most of the tolls have some delay in reading Fastag.

Toll booths are at Nijjerpura ( 10), Dhilawan (10),Ladowal (130),Ghaggar (75),Gharonda(125), Panipat (35) and Bhagan (75) 

Total 460.00

Petrol 119 litres in 4 refilling plus10 litres at Nako.